Risotto and the seafood table, from asparagus to vongole

Italian cooking at the table at Fiena restaurant, King's Cross

Risotto rewards restaurants that refuse to hurry it, and ours is stirred to order in the King's Cross kitchen. The Fiena main menu carries two: arborio with king prawns, seasonal asparagus, white wine and parmesan, and the creamy mushroom risotto with parmesan and butter that regulars treat as a reference dish.

The seafood run continues

Linguine frutti di mare brings a full mix of seafood in bisque, chilli and tomato. Linguine vongole answers with clams, baby prawns and cherry tomatoes. Further up the menu, mussels arrive in a pan of capers, anchovies, olives and white wine with toasted bread for the sauce, and the marinated seafood plate keeps things cold, sharp and citrusy.

Twirling creamy pasta with parmesan at Fiena, an Italian restaurant in King's Cross

White wine territory

This is what the Gavi di Gavi and Albarino on the wine list were built for, crisp, mineral, unbothered. From midday every day at 4 Medway Court, Judd Street, minutes from St Pancras. Book a table.