Italian restaurant near Red Lion Square and Conway Hall, Holborn
Red Lion Square is a small, leafy square just off Holborn, best known today as the home of Conway Hall. If you're there for a talk, a concert or a meeting an...
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Most people know Chilean wine for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Carmenère. But for centuries, the grape that filled Chile's vineyards was a humbler one called País. There's one on the red list at Fiena, our family-run Italian cafe, bar and restaurant at 4 Medway Court, Judd Street, London WC1H 9QX, a few minutes' walk from King's Cross St Pancras. Here's the story of one of the oldest wine grapes in the Americas.
País is believed to have come to Chile with Spanish settlers from Peru in the 16th century. Grape experts think it descends from the Spanish "common black grape" that Hernán Cortés brought to Mexico in 1520. From there, missionaries carried the vine across the Americas, because they needed wine for Mass.
That's why the same grape has different names in different countries. In California it's the Mission grape, first planted there by Junípero Serra at Mission San Diego de Alcalá in 1769. In Argentina it's known as Criolla Chica, and it's sometimes called Negra Peruana. In 2006, Spanish scientists at the Centro Nacional de Biotecnología in Madrid finally solved the mystery of where it came from: its DNA matched a little-known Spanish variety called Listán Prieto. Back in Spain, phylloxera wiped those old vines out everywhere except the Canary Islands.
País was Chile's most planted grape until around the turn of the 21st century, when Cabernet Sauvignon overtook it. Today it's mostly grown in the south of the country, in the Bío-Bío, Maule and Itata regions. Growers value it because it's vigorous and easy to grow, and the vine copes well with drought. Old Mission vines have a thick, twisting trunk that looks more like a small tree.
Traditionally, País made light, rustic everyday wine, much of it drunk at home in Chile. The grape has thin skins, which is part of why it often gives a lighter-coloured red. Background from Wikipedia's País page and its page on the Mission grape.
On our drinks menu, the Pais Lot 215 Garage Wine is described as a deep dark ruby, with ripe red fruit, subtle spice and earthy undertones. It's medium-bodied, with round tannins and an elegant finish. If you'd like to compare it with other reds on the list, try the Merlot Family Vintage from Tres Palacios in the Maipo, Chile, the Malbec with black cherry and spice, or, to stay in Italy, the Cara Amica Sangiovese and the fragrant Pinot Nero. See our guide to our wine list and our posts on Sangiovese and Pinot Nero. Ask our team about glasses and bottles when you order.
A medium-bodied red with red fruit and a little earthiness is easy to match with food. From our main menu, which starts at midday:
See our posts on spaghetti bolognese, lasagna, our chicken dishes and funghi al forno.
Guests often say the room suits a glass of wine. Ayub wrote that the place has a relaxed vibe that made it perfect for both a casual meal and a nicer night out.
(Ayub, Google review) And Nasipa: The atmosphere is cozy and well-designed, making it a great spot for a relaxed meal.
(Nasipa, Google review)
A red with five centuries of history behind it, and a plate of pasta to go with it, a few minutes from King's Cross. Book a table or just walk in. Please drink responsibly.
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